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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which was a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the food, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then added into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary achievement.